Where to go in Sonoma

'Napa's' best kept 'secret'

Good morning. Time is nigh to head to northern California’s wine country. Late spring/early summer, before the region heats up to Luciferian proportions — we’re talking about a series of valleys, after all — is one of my favorite seasons to visit, though you really can’t go wrong with making a trip any time of year. (Some people like 100 degree dry heat. Good on them! I’d suggest sunblock.)

In the American popular imagination, Napa is synonymous with wine country — it’s one of the reasons Friends in Napa takes place where it does and not in say, Carmel, which is another favorite (and woefully underrated) California wine region (another guide for another time). Much has been written about the supposed rivalry between Napa and Sonoma, but if you ask me, they’re both equally worthy of your time, energy, and leisure dollars.

For reference: Sonoma is located west of Napa, which makes it closer to the Pacific. If you’re into Pinot Noir — and a lot of people are into Pinot Noir, particularly those made in California — this place just might be your jam (pun somewhat intended).

Pro tip: do not attempt to zig zag between Napa and Sonoma more than once during your trip, unless you’re into $100+ rides in Lyfts that are only spottily available. It can take an hour (or more) to get from one valley to the other, so if you want to combine them, I’d suggest spending a few nights in Napa and then heading to Sonoma, or vice versa.

Pro pro tip: fly into the Charles M. Schulz Sonoma County Airport. It’s named after the creator of Peanuts, a longtime Sonoma County resident, and his cartoons adorn the walls. It allows you to beat Bay Area traffic. I often fly into STS even if I’m staying in Napa, because if I have to spend an hour in a car, I’d rather look out at vines than big box stores.

What you’ll see as you stroll to your departure gate.

Without further ado:

TO STAY

A 100°F day at Montage Healdsburg.

Montage Healdsburg looms large at the top of Sonoma County, a sublimely appointed campus for those who want to wine, sleep, spa, repeat (apologies to Fatboy Slim). The food is delicious too, but the thing I love the most about this property is the fact that every room offers a panoramic view of the on-site vineyard and the rolling hills that surround it.

The mignonette at the Montage: piquant, bright, vinegary but not overwhelmingly so. Platonic ideal status.

Fun fact: the treatment that Rachel and Anjali undergo in Friends in Napa was inspired by the “vineyard to spa” regimen offered at the Montage Healdsburg spa. There is no saran wrap (that I recall). It is marvelous.

Litter your menu with quotes like these, as the Madrona does, and literary types will come to your bar. Scientifically proven.

The Madrona Hotel also appears in Friends in Napa, and while I’ve never stayed there, I can attest to the supremacy of its bar, which is like Bemelmans but in wine country. It’s my pick for a martini, which you might be in the mood for after drinking 87 types of Pinot.

The water pressure at MacArthur Place is also excellent.

If you want to stay in Sonoma proper — Sonoma is a city within the town of Sonoma County, though it exudes small town charm — check into MacArthur Place and try not to want to move into one of their Holiday-coded cottages. I fell in love with the Fellow kettle in mine and briefly considered stuffing it in my bag and taking it home. I didn’t end up doing that (mostly because I feared that the spout would snap in transit), so maybe they’ll allow me back.

TO EAT

I want this on a shirt.

The Matheson is a wine nerd’s paradise for at least one reason/Riesling: it boasts a “wine wall” rife with eye wateringly expensive bottles that you normally can’t get by the glass. Here, you can purchase a prepaid debit card and swipe that sucker for, say, a six ounce pour of Château La Tour, which will still set you back at $55 but hey, a bottle of their Bordeaux can go for as much as $14,950, so it’s practically free. It’s like Bank of America but better because you don’t have to panic about accidentally hitting the button that shows your account balance because seriously, who does that?