Top five islands in the sun
Where to go for a rarified beach retreat
White sand and crystalline blue water is my idea of a perfect beach vacation.
I’m not one for water sports — putting on a snorkeling mask gives me a panic attack, and JetSkis make me nervous. (What if I fall off and hit my head in the water and get a concussion and drown? Real thoughts!) Several years ago, I interviewed Joie Rucker, founder of the denim brand Joie, about how she took up surfing at 60; sometimes I wonder if I could do the same. I’d need to work on my swimming. As well as my understanding of water-borne concussions. Let’s see.
All of which is to say that my ideal island vacation includes the two ingredients mentioned at the top as well as a sublime place to stay and — crucial factor here — sunny days with a minimum of rain. To that end, below each entry, I’ve included intel on the ideal time to visit.
I had a hard time culling this list down to five and realized that I need to do a separate list of the best beach resorts in Mexico — coming soon!
Without further ado:
Joali and Joali Being, Raa Atoll, Maldives
Having just spent a week in the warm embrace of the Joali family, these sister resorts in the Raa Atoll of the Maldives are extremely top of mind.
Joali, which roughly translates to the joy of living, opened in 2018, and boy is it a joy to call this place home. Their sumptuously appointed villas look straight out of Architectural Digest.
Their chefs never miss — sushi, curry, kebabs, pizza, it’s all divine — and the staff feels like family that you actually want to see. During my most recent visit, there were 80 guests on property and 450 employees. How’s that for a staff to guest ratio!
Joali Being is like the original resort run through a Goop filter. The wellness offerings are vast — think spa treatments like Watsu, in which a massage therapist stretches and swishes you around a warm pool like a baby, and sound healing, in which you lie on a bed and absorb the vibrations of a dozen xylophone-type instruments. You can get a deep tissue massage if you want one, but I’d encourage you to branch out. The gym is new and vast and replete with its own high tech touches, like a Cryotherapy chamber and a machine that can purportedly fix your posture.
You can start your stay by doing an assessment with a naturopath who will come up with a plan to cure what ails you. Mine said I need to learn how to breathe, which feels like getting a C in Being Human 101.
The food at Joali Being leans healthy in the sense that there are lots of gluten free options and many composed plates of vegetables. Alcohol is on offer, but it’s not in your face — there’s none in the minibar (unless you request it) and you won’t see bottles on display at any of the bars. There IS a tea bar, as well as an art studio (Joali has one as well) and a culinary workshop where you can, for example, learn how make a California roll and then feel guilty for wanting it to taste like the ones with the fake crab stick that you used to buy at Duane Reade.
Children are welcome at both properties and both have kids clubs. To note: you have to take a sea plane to reach the Raa Atoll, so if you’re skittish about small planes and landing on water, this might not be the place for you.
When to go: climate change has obviated the notion of dry and wet seasons in this part of the world, but your best bet for days of full sun and minimal wind are December through April, with an emphasis on January through March. “It rained on New Year’s Eve last year,” a Joali employee told me. You can imagine how thrilled the guests were.
Eden Rock, St Barths
Confession: I have not had the pleasure of staying at Eden Rock St Barths. I have, however, had lunch there and whiled away several excellent afternoons at Nikki Beach, which shares the glorious Saint Jean beach with the resort, and I can tell you that A) the fries were frying and B) this is some of the stillest, bluest, bathwater warm water that I’ve ever encountered.
The Nikki Beach deejays keep the tunes pumping and the vibrations high, but not in a ratchet spring break kind of way. Close second: Le Barthélemy, whose beach is more quiet but still ideally located, and sheesh, what a pool.
When to go: November through May. I’ve been twice in mid May; I did not see a speck of rain.
Pine Cay, Turks & Caicos
If you want to get away from it all, go to Pine Cay. Off the beaten path in Turks & Caicos, it’s a private island near Providenciales that, 50 years ago, became a haven for second (or third, or fourth) home owners seeking ultimate seclusion.
With only 38 homes, deeds rarely change hands, but thankfully there’s also a hotel, so even if you don’t have $3.5 million to drop on a beach house, you, too, can partake in private island bliss.
When to go: December through April. That being said, I went in February and there were a few showers as well as winds strong enough to lift your hat from your head in some parts.
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